I’m still missing a few parts, the most important of which are the spacers between the plate and the underside of the case. This simple test caught a few dud LEDs, and gave me an idea of how bright these diodes were. Recently I wanted to change up my keyboard situation because I wasn’t entirely happy with my current ones. For my first build this board represents a success. I had some trouble with this due to some avrdude related issues using an incompatible version of gcc to compile the key-mappings. This board would be portable (at 75% in size like the race 3) to work with my laptop and would fit into a mahogany case with a removable lid so I can use it on the go. Only one of these tasks was completed due to the delay on the keycap delivery, and micro-controller-based problems. The result was barely worth the effort but I have received compliments about the professional quality of the finish, despite the patina on the undersides of the plates. I only have a week to build this board and any related components, such as firmware. I also could not run make keebio/iris/rev2:default:avrdude to flash the default key-mappings onto the micro-controllers as this required a two-stage reset and fiddling with the dodgy Caterina bootloader. Faith in my soldering is not ideal but necessary and falls into that uncomfortable space of problems that are fiddly to get right and outright unpleasant to adjust in small increments. I gave myself a week to build the board, and write the software. This build guide is exclusively for Rev. I couldn’t test the actual functionality at this point until everything else was done, which is annoying but unavoidable. Please consult the README guides for each firmware for specific instructions on how to use and compile it. Iris keyboard middle layer. Computer Keyboard Iris Battle Gaming Boards Concept Buttons Album Inspiration. At this point the remaining tasks were to solder on the last components and test that the keyboard worked. I played it safe and emulated the vortex colour scheme of off-white and grey caps (GEK and GKK). Overall the build was a success with caveats. I settled on a metal plate as this would stabilise the typing surface and the mount onto which the PCB was fixed. Post with 3476 views. It is possible to have worked on the software without caps however the week was up and I was going on holiday :-) This time didn’t account for months of research required and months to deliver the components but I consider that to be a constant factor in most builds of this scale. It was encouraging to see a graph of my WPM rate steadily return to a normal level. It’s important to solder switches into the main corners of the plates and mount the PCB first so that you have a stable surface to solder the rest on. As an engineer I make use of many special characters and short-cuts, however none of these are supported by larger full-size (100%) boards by default. translation missing ... [PRE-ORDER] TOFU RGB 60% Hot swap Custom keyboard kit. Look no further! Varmilo VA108M RGBY 108 Key Mechanical Keyboard with Cherry MX Brown switches $ 155.00 $ 145.00; Sale! Admittedly I could have spent more time considering the ergonomic, stylistic, and practical matters but I’m leaving that to further work. The Iris sandwich case consists these pieces: Switch plate (Required) Bottom plate (Required) Middle layer (Optional) Top rim or Top shell (Optional) Compatibility info for Rev. A build isn’t complete without a key mapping. *Please note that the Iris 2 keyboard will turn yellow in response to notes you play on your MIDI keyboard. I spend a lot of time at my desk typing on a fixed board and so I’d like to mitigate the long-term effects of RSI. This means the build should be well planned out, and more importantly actionable within the time I have. As a result I haven’t used the board, or written my own firmware for it. 2 Build Guide . This involved cloning the firmware from GitHub, and later QMK toolbox. 4.) This will help with accessing these symbols as unicode, for which support is increasing. A couple people (literally two, haha) asked to see my Iris build log. The open design means the switch mounts are exposed however, so the board has a noticable clack when used. I ran a small local GB from the australian keyboard discord server in May 2018 which went fairly smoothly. The switches supported through-hole LEDs which needed to be mounted and soldered in the same way as the resistors. The result was a bubbly and inconsistent finish. After assembly and screwing on the acrylic base the build was done! At this point it’s day 5 of the build and the end is in sight! Also featuring possible micro-controllers for the next build. I wanted to preserve the beautiful gleam of the copper for as long as can and so I lacquered the plates. As for user testing and firmware, I may write another post in the future. Next I had to consider the aesthetics of the board, notably by choosing a switch plate. For those who might be interested doing a build themselves, keebio provides a thorough Build Guide. Can you figure out why this one is so hard to replace? Finally the micro-controllers were soldered onto the new headers. Iris middle layer(optional) 5. The build itself is very solid with the copper and acrylic base; there is no flex in the boards. This is a guide to most, if not all, of the random questions new players will have when they first join Iris! Linear red switches have neither and simply slide. You may notice here some resistors are not used in the build, this is because I ordered the wrong ones! My colleague Alastair wrote a great blog about his split build: he designed his split board to sit on top of his MacBook Pro. Fortunately we have a maker lab at work stocked with the latest and greatest in technology from laser cutters to 3D printers and so resourcing the tooling shouldn’t be an issue. Buyer's Guide Dads ... AZIO’s gorgeous Iris keyboard is inspired by vintage cameras. I’ll cover my aims (and constraints) for the build, followed by a build log, before finishing with some comments and further work. With the holiday season bringing many discounts on electronics, it is the best time to build your own custom PC. Here are our recommendations for building an Intel 10th-gen PC for around $500. While this build guide shows parts for the Iris, the build is very similar to that of the Levinson, as well as the Nyquist Rev. Assembling an Iris keyboard. At this point in the build process I did some research to get an idea of how mechanical keyboards work, and consider which components would be best for me. The last main component was the key caps, I chose to go with DSA profile dye-sublimated keycaps from signature plastics. In this blog I’ll talk about my experience building my first mechanical keyboard. Iris PCBs (this item) 2. I’m not sold on the idea of using green LEDs to give an ‘oxidation effect’ as it contrasts too heavily with the copper, silver, and brass parts. The result of this search is a pair of B-stock boards of different colours; whilst this isn’t symmetric, it is still pretty. The rest of the components include: a silver TRRS cable with silver sheaf, Pro Micro (and now an elite C) micro-controllers, green 1.8mm LEDs, resistors for the LEDs and switches, diodes, nickel plated M2 stand-offs, and a strip of green LEDs for under glow. At the end of 2017, Eric of Aeboards asked me for a simple iris case. I simply tested that the LEDs turned on. It is the Iris from keebio. Backlight LEDs are mounted reversed to create a cold white underglow. That is, It doesn’t have arbitrary macros that can invoke arbitrary programs, with arbitrary symbols bound to keys, and an arbitrary number of layers I can switch out as needed. Ideally the PCB would support 3-pin LEDs to vary the colour as needed but that wasn’t supported in the rev 2. Instead I aim to build a board which is essentially cut in half so I can adjust the angle of use as much as I need. Firstly, my custom keycaps were shipped from America and consequently got stuck in customs for 2 weeks. Before fitting the full set, I quickly assembled the other switch plate to see if it had the same problem, luckily it didn’t. Made to fit on a Monoprice Select mini build plate size. Layout of the components at the start of the build. Other than that, the keyboard works like a charm! It measures in volume somewhere between the muted thunk of cherry MX clears and the thinner click of MX blues. I’m excited to begin building the Iris, and I anticipate it should go pretty quickly. For Rev. Vortex in a glamour shot. In the past few months, I built an Ergodox and Planck keyboard. Mount the switches onto the plate and PCB. Realistically switch choice should have governed the choice of switch plate and PCB, and in the next build it may, but for the first build I wanted something familiar. Next I tested that each of the switches worked as expected, I used a multi-meter to measure the current across them. We use essential cookies to perform essential website functions, e.g. IRIS is an integrated hardware and software room acoustics measurement system developed by Marshall Day Acoustics. Case pieces. With all things said and done this project took quite a lot longer than I had planned. A build isn’t complete without a key mapping. I’ve been looking into stand-up desks, better ways to work, and the ergonomic things I can do to mitigate negative effects of, in essence, cramping up over a desk due to extended use. I’m at that stage of my career where I’m starting to optimise my work-flow so I can focus on the tasks that need the real attention. Now is a good place to note that as these boards were B-stock one came pre-soldered with a few reset switches, MOSFETs and other components (probably for testing). This guide can also be used for the Nyquist Rev. from $159.00 TOFU65 Custom mechanical keyboard DIY KIT. A clean dust free area with plenty of ventilation. I wanted to learn about soldering and working with these components myself so I had to find some old stock. 54-56 Switches (MX, Alps, or Choc) 6. I've elaborated on and generalized this information to make it easier to use. The modular nature of the build meant it was largely impossible to ensure all components worked together as expected until the last micro-controller was soldered on. Now that the small components were soldered on it was time to mount the switches. Feel free to email me if you have any questions using [email protected], This site was built using This suggests I may prefer I mid-sized board with a higher number of modifiers and layers within range of the home row. Luckily the firmware worked as expected too, however there were a few caveats which I cover in the Comments below. There’s not much to it, to be honest, but I typed up a few things that found about my experience. 2, since they all have in-switch LED support.!!! As is self-evident by the title I settled on an Iris split keyboard with a brushed copper switch plate, Zealios v2 67g tactile switches, and DSA profile PBT plastic keycaps in an off-white/grey. Skip to content. If you’re reading this and you know of copper tents like these then please let me know! That is, using spare Arm powered micro-controllers, custom wiring, custom cut cases, and bespoke firmware. Finding the best layout can be a continual work in progress, but I’m happy with the layout so far. Additionally there are plenty of Iris build guides, which is valuable given the time constraints of this build (here, here, here). This build is specced out as follows: The base is finished but there is more work to be done! Iris Rev2 PCBs B-stock in black and white. At the time of writing, I have just received my replacement micro-controller but have not soldered it onto the PCB yet. I’d like to thank Alastair Reid for his tips and discussions about keyboard builds over lunch in the early phases, and the many RSI jokes made in the office! The Iris Ice Project is a build of the Iris keyboard with custom made case composed of a 3D printed switch top plate, a translucent laser cut acrylic middle plate and a brushed still bottom plate. Iris Split Mechanical Keyboard Build A blog about my experience building my first split mechanical keyboard. by canderson. Let’s look into the iris PCBs first to set the stage on why I went with this form factor. Additionally the plates dried outside during one of the hottest summers on record and so the plastic layers cracked several times. The TRRS cable is also custom made to fit the right size. Deviating from the typical code-centric post, I wanted to share my latest keyboard build. I also soldered on the micro-controller headers at this point. I went with Zealios v2 67g as they are known for the tactile bump at the top of the switch, the solid design, and MX compatibility with the other components. Here is the final result, equipped with Kailh speed silver switches and DSA keycaps. It's a sandwich-style case with cutouts to accomodate the USB jack and the TRRS jack. If I were to work with untreated metals again, I would ensure they are treated professionally before use. You can get assembly service from keeb.io. Iris build pics. I have a Logitech G413 with the Romer-G switches and a Corsair with Cherry MX Browns. The (almost) finished Iris keyboard and a Logitech M570 trackball mouse. The copper plates I received were not finished. My key switches for my custom mech build have arrived, thanks @ZealPC! Right half PCB Items needed for Build: 1. This was noticeable when mounting the micro-controllers above LED solder points as I had to solder this whilst keeping the mount straight at a fixed height. For firmware I went with the Quantum Mechanical Keyboard (QMK) firmware due to its ubiquity, ease of use, and time constraints on this project. These are my supplemental pictures and notes to that. Pictured is the final look of the board, and the USB cable with a broken header on it. What followed was a few months of designing and testing a new tenting system to mod onto the iris case files provided by keeb.io (original seller of the iris keyboard. iris keyboard. I’m excited to begin building the Iris, and I anticipate it should go pretty quickly. As for my lacquering skills there is plenty of room for improvement. First I tested that the LEDs, the micro-controller, and the switches operated as expected. Here's my build log for it. I am largely happy with the result however as there is a beauty in uniqueness of the build and the memories that come with it! Taking Stock of Anomalies with F# and ML.NET. Combined with green LEDs the goal is to give a copper patina look but without the patina. It was at this point that I realised not only that I had soldered the headers on the wrong way round, but also that I didn’t have enough clearance between the micro-controller and the acrylic base. The last of the switches, it's looking good! Find the best Isis build guides for SMITE Patch 7.9. Last but not least I’d like to thank the folks in the hardware lab at work who helped me solder and debug my board. Within 30 minutes of use the header (and traces) had snapped off! On one hand I wanted something practical with no flex, but on the other hand it had to look nice (as all custom boards must!). I had never lacquered anything before, let alone a copper surface that is very sensitive to patina. Iris 2 should then be able to communicate properly with this MIDI device, and you should hear audio playback when playing a file in Iris 2 using your keyboard or MIDI device. 3/4 I would learn more about the fundamental components of firmware and driver get to design a board from the ground up. The first consideration is the kind of switch and the actuation force required to press them. To lacquer untreated Copper you need the following: I had one of these to begin with. Build Guides. Another important consideration is how many keys I use on a daily basis. Tenkeyless (87%) boards improve this with less keys, however I find there is still unused keys and time wasted moving my hands to or from the home row. I've included the original for you to use if your build area can handle it. I’ve seen the effects of long term cramping over a career and I aim to avoid the same result. 1.1 Summary of this Manual 2.0 IRIS Kit describes the contents of the IRIS kit and how to install the necessary drivers and software 3.0 Conduct a 3-D Measurement walks through the steps of setting up an IRIS kit and conducting a They top a great build! To test the LEDs I rigged together a simple circuit using a 5V rail from an Arduino, a resistor, and an LED. This had long lasting effects as I couldn’t restore the copper to a patina-free point. Solder the resistors, TRRS jack, and diodes onto the PCBs. It’s worth checking at this point that you haven’t got any dry joints which may cause your board not to work later if the contacts aren’t connected. warning "For Kailh Low-Profile PCBs:" In my previous post I decided I would build a new split keyboard, and explored the Iris. Lastly I soldered on the rest of the switches. Placing the resistors in the correct spots. So some of the components such as the PCB will likely come pre-made to make this build possible. Covers just about everything like the Iris, Quefrency, Sinc, BDN9, and more! The plan is to design and write my on Space Cadet QMK driver with Greek, logic, and LISP-inspired layers. This was muted to a degree by rubber O-rings under the keycaps, however the sound is still prominent and I’m not convinced I’m a fan just yet. The working right side with one dead diode, I was able to replace the other one. Most parts were contained in the kit from Mechboards. Tactile clear switches are tactile and have a bump. In these cases it's good to add more solder if you can. Iris Plate Kit 3. They start out slow, focusing on each column and finger, and build up to complete sentences and paragraphs. Next I tried 99% strength Isopropyl alcohol which was much better at removing bad lacquer, cleaning the copper, and leaving no residue. Once all is said and done this build was largely component based. Standard keyboards force your hands to a small fixed-point of the table when working, and this is not a natural position for your hands. Good news is that once everything is sorted, I can apply my tenting system to any split keyboard and even regular boards. My custom switch plates have arrived for my mech build, thanks @LaserBoost! Lacquer the unfinished copper on the switch plate. This seems like a general solution to the fixed-point problem and there are several builds out there that do this well. Includes PCB and various components 2x Pro Micros TRRS Cable PRINTING: Print the bases upside down and turn on supports (supported bridges as well if needed) so that the cutouts for your ProMicro and TRRS jacks … This is a good build, however split builds like these are still bounded by the fixed-point problem and fiddly to get right as you must find the right angle of split before you make the board. These odd jobs, some of which are not necessary, will improve the keyboard and (hopefully) my skills. Iris Rev. As a bonus, I’ve included a couple build process images, shown in reverse chronological order. To get a consistent fold, I used the acrylic base as an edge against which to fold the components over. I’ve been using a Vortex Race 3 as my daily driver which partially bridges the gap with programmable macros, bindable keys, and stock layouts that make typing more efficient; however it is not fully reprogrammable to the n-th degree. When choosing a split I had plenty of choice including the Ergodox, Iris, Let’s Split, Helix and more. Luckily no switches were broken which is a relief as I only have 2 to spare. Conversely Let’s Split and Helix families of boards were slightly too small and I wouldn’t make full use of my thumbs. An alternative was the Helidox design which solved this problem, however I was not keen on the exposed boards on top. To lacquer Copper you must first clean off any dust or dirt using something that doesn’t leave a residue like Isapropyl Alcohol. I went with an open-side design and an acrylic base for the board so I could show off the circuitry underneath. All of these models are fixed, and so the next logical step is to consider split keyboards. Iris build pics. pic.twitter.com/KMKHHrMvYu. 2 and Rev. Build your own mechanical keyboard, starting here! The choice of switch will likely have an effect on the switch plates I can mount them to, the PCBs that support them, and an onset of other side effects for the build (such as build height, usable keycaps, and more). The silver lining is that I get to try out the DFU bootloader, and future proof half of my keyboard with a USB C-type port; the obvious downsides are cost and the need to have 2 types of cable should I ever choose to swap the master micro-controller over. Home Shop translation missing: en.layout.navigation.expand. Here's an inventory of what I bought during the build process: pdf. I’ve been experimenting with ergonomic set-ups and the wonders of mechanical keyboards, and so I decided to build my own! Iris Rev4 Build. My vortex race 3, rocking cherry MX clears and a granite keyset as standard. With the components ready to go, it was time to build the board. Gifs sourced. Solder the LEDs and micro controllers onto the PCBs. The choice of PCB informed the rest of the design and in particular the switch plate. I’ve been experimenting with ergonomic set-ups and the wonders of mechanical keyboards, and so I decided to build my own! Finished Iris Split Mechanical Keyboard build with a brushed copper plate, Zealios v2 67g, Iris Rev2 PCBs, and green LEDs to give a Copper Oxide effect without the rust. After arrival and installation I discovered an unfortunate feature of the Pro micro: the weak soldering on the USB header. Item Contents 1. However you choose to play Isis, The SMITEFire community will help you craft the best build for the S7 meta and your chosen game mode. Learn Isis' skills, stats and more. Jekyll, with the Folio Theme from JekyllThemes.io and is hosted on Github. Load Iris 2. Case for each side of an Iris Keyboard kit (built/tested with v2.6 PCBs) Features a thick integrated switch plate and a base that provides a 6 deg incline. Posted on 2019, Jun 16. I wanted a profile that could help me navigate to the home row, whilst having a quality sound and feel that wouldn’t distract me at work. After futile efforts to recover the micro-controller, I ordered an Elite-C from SpaceCat design. At the end of 2017, Eric of Aeboards asked me for a simple iris case. Deviating from the typical code-centric post, I wanted to share my latest keyboard build. In particular the other board has SMD diodes and a MOSFET on which meant I doubled up on my order of diodes! Have tonnes of fun! I opted to use Mill-Max Ultra-Low Profile Sockets for the Pro Micro, which I bought from r/mechmarketsome time ago. With the finishing posts in sight it was only fitting that more problems would come my way. Left half PCB 2. I may replace the green LEDS with yellow ones to be consistent. This caught 2 dud LEDs and no dead switches however 2 LEDs broke later in the build sometime between soldering and testing the boards. Next you must apply the lacquer consistently across the plates, making sure the plates are flat so the lacquer doesn’t travel to one side. Iris PCBs with on-board controller and USB-C port. Clickly blue switches have a bump and a moving jacket that makes the click. The lacquering process took several attempts with noticeable patina on the underside of the plates. ... and to save AZIO having to build full and tenkeyless versions of the same device. I went with copper after settling on an industrial (but not quite cyberpunk) look. I’m not a fan of either of them for different reasons. Learn how to assemble various keyboards from Keebio. They’re not necessary, but nice to have. The board (sort of) works and is pleasant to type on however there were several problems during the build and plenty of room for improvement. A Newbie's Guide to NS Iris Online Are you completely new? I'm checking the solder job on a reset switch that came with the board and notice it's a little dry. Tactile switches have a noticeable activation point for good touch typing whilst being office friendly (not loud). Below is the current iteration of layer definitions, using QMK firmware. Lost in what to do next? Iris kit with Kailh low-profile switches and keycaps. Second, I need to consider the factors of an ergonomic build that will improve my work-flow as these will likely inform the kind of build I make. Popular switches at the time included Zealios v2, Holy Pandas, Kailh Box Royals, or variations of Alps. TRRS Cable 4. In order to maximise the ergonomic utility of this board I would like to add copper tents (like laser ninja’s) to the board so I can vary the angle of the board; ideally to an arbitrary degree but more realistically at fixed heights by screwing into the M2 fittings. The tutorial isn't exactly for the Levinson, but for the Iris keyboard. I also ruined a Pyrex bowl when lacquering the plates. Next I tested that the micro-controllers were not dead on arrival and installed the firmware. Next up was the choice of switches. Just solder in your switches and you're done! If I make another keyboard I may build it from the ground up. My vortex at 75% hits a sweet spot of key use-density, quality, and size; however it is not split and has limited programmability of macros and key-bindings. This does however mean I need to ensure all the components arrive before I start the build, which may take some time if they are custom components. 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